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Ruby Red Lip
 
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Last Login: 5/7/2008 9:16:11 PM
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Hey everyone, I have a 17' CC thats needing a new floor. I am going to install it with my Father in laws help, but I want some ideas on what yall might use for the floor. Also, how do I protect the floor from the elements?? Thanks for the help...
I wonder what my wifes saying when I am gone for 10 hours fishing? Tommy
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Ruby Red Lip
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 5/7/2008 9:16:11 PM
Posts: 35,
Visits: 240
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Anyone have any suggestions? All help is much appreciated.
I wonder what my wifes saying when I am gone for 10 hours fishing? Tommy
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Ruby Red Lip
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Last Login: 2 days ago @ 11:16:45 PM
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Go to boat and fishing tips and tricks and read "Grady rebuild". Also, do a google search on "boat floor replacement". It's not hard, just dirty, itchy and smelly, which is the nature of most fiberglass repair! Use GOOD resin and just as X-Shark and myself advise, don't rely on mat.
Dave
Harriet Beecher Stowe:
Common sense is the knack of seeing things as they are, and doing things as they ought to be done.
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Sailfish
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How you cut the old out is important also. IE: making yourself less work.
Leave a 3in parameter of the old deck when cutting. This will act as a shelf /clete for the new to sit on. It will also act as a water trough to funnel water away.
The new deck will be set back aprox 1 1/2in from the outside edge to do this. You will loose aprox 1/2in of freeboard on your legs doing this. [Thats with using 1/2in plywood.]
Encapsulate the bottom side with some 4oz or 6oz cloth to keep it from checking. Just coating it with resign will not do that on Fir plywood.
2 layers of 1808 on the topside to protect the wood from bumps and bruises.
Do not overlap the pieces of glass when laying layer #1 or #2. Use butt joints, but stager the joints on the next layer. This will keep bumps and bulges out of the floor.
The outside perimeter of the new plywood get's a router with a round over bit run around it to relax that hard edge. This will let the glass conform without bridging and having voids.
The new floor gets glued with epoxy/Cabisol on that clete. A few screws are installed temperory, but removed before glassing the topside.
There is more to it, but thats the jest.
Use 1/2in Marine ply. [NOT freaking PT plywood. :(]
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"Just cause it's new, doesn't mean it's worth a Damn."
Pensacola, Fl
Custom 23ft Mako Pilothouse w/ twin DF-140 Suzuki's
162 Scout w/ C-90 Yamaha
1860 SeaArk w/ DF-70 Suzuki
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Sailfish
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Last Login: Today @ 11:34:54 AM
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The method I suggested above is to not have your work look like this.
Notice the glass has been run up the side and is just stuck there without the removal of the gellcoat. this is a sure sign of someone not knowing what they are doing and it's also a Hell'va lot more work in fairing to make it look right. Never mind the lack of adhesion.
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"Just cause it's new, doesn't mean it's worth a Damn."
Pensacola, Fl
Custom 23ft Mako Pilothouse w/ twin DF-140 Suzuki's
162 Scout w/ C-90 Yamaha
1860 SeaArk w/ DF-70 Suzuki
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Snapper
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| The web page on Ship Shape will show you & tell you what materials you need.
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Ruby Red Lip
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Last Login: 2 days ago @ 11:16:45 PM
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X-Shark, those pics look like a Homer Simpson moment.......................................................DOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHHHHH!
Dave
Harriet Beecher Stowe:
Common sense is the knack of seeing things as they are, and doing things as they ought to be done.
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Sailfish
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: Today @ 11:34:54 AM
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Yes. Did you notice the use of Pine plywood, no bullnosing on all the edges of the box's and no fillets on the inside corners?
---------------------------------------------------------
"Just cause it's new, doesn't mean it's worth a Damn."
Pensacola, Fl
Custom 23ft Mako Pilothouse w/ twin DF-140 Suzuki's
162 Scout w/ C-90 Yamaha
1860 SeaArk w/ DF-70 Suzuki
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